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If you’ve been researching Porto, chances are you’ve already come across Livraria Lello. This famous Porto bookstore is consistently listed among the top things to do in Porto. And it is often cited as one of the bookstores that inspired J.K. Rowling while she lived in Porto. Between the Harry Potter connection, the beautiful staircase, and countless Instagram photos, it’s become one of Porto’s most visited tourist attractions. But is Livraria Lello worth it?
I hate to say it, but in the spirit of being honest, I think Livraria Lello has become a victim of its own popularity!
Don’t get me wrong, the building itself is gorgeous. Built in 1906, this gorgeous bookstore is known for its beautiful Neo-Gothic architecture. The sweeping red staircase is really beautiful, and I can absolutely imagine how magical it must have felt years ago, when J.K. Rowling was spending time in Porto and drawing inspiration from places like this.
But today, visiting Livraria Lello feels less like wandering through a historic bookstore and more like entering a crowded tourist attraction where almost everyone is there for the same photo. Visiting here felt a lot like our visit to Eze, France, last year, where we honestly couldn’t wait to get out of there and exhale.
That said, this is our personal experience visiting Livraria Lello in Porto, Portugal, as a family of four on Wednesday, May 27, 2026. So, all of Porto was actually pretty busy! I would guess that in the off-season months, Livrario Lello is much less crowded. So, that may be a great time to visit this popular Porto bookstore!
For me, visiting Livraria Lello this May felt a lot more like Black Friday than a bookstore, if that makes sense. So, that’s probably why Livraria Lello felt so crazy to us, especially upstairs. Not just the number of people, but also the pushy behavior by many people trying to capture the perfect photos and videos.
It wasn’t because the bookstore wasn’t beautiful. It is actually stunning! For my family, Livraria Lello just felt like a place that had become so popular that it was no longer enjoyable.
Visiting Livraria Lello In Porto, Portugal
Before our trip to Porto, I kept seeing Livraria Lello everywhere. Travel blogs called it one of Porto’s must-see attractions. Social media was full of photos of the bookstore’s famous staircase. Some stories I read even suggested booking tickets weeks in advance because it was so popular.
Our family debated whether or not to visit several times before our trip to Portugal. In the end, we decided not to buy tickets in advance for Livraria Lello.
Then, on one of our four days in Porto, we walked over to see this popular Porto bookstore for ourselves. There were still wide-open same-day tickets available despite some of the warnings we’d seen online.
We could see the crowds from several blocks away as we approached. We knew it would probably be touristy. But we were already there, and it wasn’t sold out. So we decided to buy timed-entry tickets online on the spot and go in anyway.
And almost immediately, we regretted it. But, to be fair, we knew better!
>> Click here to see my Instagram Reel Video of the inside of Livraria Lello during our visit!
Do You Need To Book Livraria Lello Tickets In Advance?
Quick sidenote for anyone deciding whether to buy Livraria Lello tickets in advance. For me, the big surprise was that same-day tickets were readily available during our visit. This was midday in May 2026. I will note that some people say the first and last slots of the day are less busy. However, because of that advice, they seem to sell more of those in advance, which leaves me wondering how quiet they actually are.
Before our trip, I had read several articles suggesting that tickets often sell out days or even weeks in advance. But that wasn’t our experience at all. And even looking at tickets today, they seem to be wide open all week.
We simply walked up, scanned the QR code to purchase our Livraria Lello silver tickets (still required), lined up in our 15-minute time slot, and went inside. Of course, this can change depending on the season, holidays, or special events.
So, if you’re visiting Porto and forgot to book ahead, it may still be worth checking ticket availability before assuming you’re out of luck. But, in the words of the great poet Taylor Swift, Don’t Say I Didn’t Warn Ya!
You can buy tickets through Livraria Lello directly or via sites like GetYourGuide or Viator!
How Crowded is Livraria Lello?
Once we were inside, it felt completely packed. People were shoulder-to-shoulder throughout the store. As soon as you walk in, visitors lined up for photos on the staircase, making it difficult to move around or simply enjoy the space.
And to be fair, we took photos too! But the experience felt much more like visiting a photo attraction than browsing a bookstore. Here I am, being part of the problem that I am telling you about. Because, in reality, we are tourists too.
So, I completely understand that we’re part of the problem. But I also like to think we are, for the most part, very thoughtful travelers. We typically spend several days in a destination, while many visitors are there for a day trip.
We eat at local restaurants, linger in neighborhood cafés, and love supporting small businesses whenever we can. We generally try to avoid tourist traps or places suffering from over-tourism when possible.
Buying Books at Livraria Lello
Even looking through the books was difficult because of how many people were inside! Your basic Silver Livraria Lello admission ticket costs 12 euros and includes a 12-euro credit toward a book. I actually like this because if they didn’t charge for this, there would probably be no crowd control or way to ensure that visitors were actually purchasing something. I am not really sure of a better way to do it!
When I bought the Livraria Lello ticket, I thought we would at least walk away with a book to read during our trip! But many of the books cost significantly more than the ticket credit. But, in all fairness, most were souvenir-style print editions with the Livraria Lello branding.
There were many classics with beautiful covers, but we expected a larger selection of newer books. We also expected to see more Harry Potter-related books given the bookstore’s reputation. But those books were tucked away in a small, very crowded section in the back.
In the end, we used two of our credits on two books Abby wanted for another 30 euros out of pocket, and called it a day. Note that you can’t combine credits, nor can you use the credits toward other merchandise.
Is Livraria Lello Worth It?
So, this is the big question, and obviously, this is only my family’s opinion.
There’s no denying that Livraria Lello is beautiful. The architecture is impressive, and the staircase really is special in person. The problem wasn’t the building itself or even the staff (who I actually felt a bit bad for).
The problem was the crowd! And that may just be because we visited mid-day in May.
Livraria Lello Has Become A Victim Of Its Own Popularity
For us, Livraria Lello felt like a place that has become a victim of Instagram, travel blogs, guidebooks, and its own massive popularity. I am happy for them that they have become such a desirable place to step foot in, but I am sure it’s hard for them to navigate as well!
I do completely understand why Livraria Lello became famous! In fact, I imagine it was probably magical years ago, when J.K. Rowling was living in Porto and drawing inspiration from places like this.
Today, though, it feels less like a bookstore and more like a tourist attraction built around taking photos on a staircase. Unfortunately, it has also made it much harder to enjoy what made the bookstore special in the first place. So, for us, I regret visiting Livraria Lello. Or, I guess I regret spending almost 50 euros for our family to visit this popular tourist attraction in Porto.
And walking along the streets of Porto, and within just a few blocks of Livraria Lello, we passed several smaller bookstores that were quiet and nearly empty. It honestly felt like a shame. While everyone crowds into one famous bookstore for photos, there are plenty of independent bookstores nearby that would probably love that business!
Visiting the Wondersense Museum Porto Next Door
Ironically, our kids’ least favorite experience in Porto led us to one of their favorite activities from our entire 18-day trip to Portugal.
Right next door to Livraria Lello is the Wondersense Museum in Portugal, and I was shocked by how empty it was, even though the bookstore next door had timed-entry queues down the street!
After we left the bookstore, Abby and Jake noticed it and asked to visit. Since they are 15 and 17, we had to sign a quick waiver so they could do it on their own, which was fun and empowering for them. And then Matt and I found a nearby spot to sit in the sunshine and enjoy a couple of beers.
The kids had an absolute blast. By the end of the trip, the Wondersense museum became one of their favorite memories from Portugal!
So, they would like me to recommend that you take your kids to Wondersense while you’re in Porto. And, here is a link to buy tickets!
Should You Visit Livraria Lello?
For us, no. We’re glad we saw it for ourselves, but we wouldn’t do it again and probably wouldn’t recommend it to most visitors. There is so much more to see and do in Porto that felt more authentic and less chaotic!
I hate writing something negative because the Livraria Lello bookstore is undeniably beautiful, and I can understand why it became famous. I can even understand why people who love books and/or the Harry Potter connection love it so much!
But for us, the crowds of people who were only there for a photo or two or twenty made it very difficult to enjoy or even simply navigate through.
That said, if visiting Livraria Lello has been on your bucket list for years, you may still enjoy it! And, honestly, it is what you make of it! If you go in knowing to expect crowds and the photo-attraction aspect, you will be better prepared to just enjoy it!
But if you’re on the fence, we’d personally spend our time exploring more of Porto instead!
And honestly, that’s one of the things we loved most about Porto. The city is full of beautiful streets, viewpoints, historic buildings, bookstores, cafés, and hidden corners! Stay tuned because I am working on getting up several new blog posts from this trip to Portugal!
More Things to Do in Porto
While Livraria Lello wasn’t our favorite experience in Porto, the city itself absolutely exceeded our expectations! We are glad we spent four nights in Porto and were able to really savor this beautiful Portuguese city.
From walking along the Douro River and discovering beautiful viewpoints to enjoying long outdoor dinners and stumbling upon quiet alleys and cafés, Porto quickly became one of our favorite destinations in Portugal!
If you are looking for other top-rated things to do in Porto, here are a few ideas. Matt and I took the full-day Douro Valley Wine Tour, and we highly recommend it!
My Portugal Travel Guides & Tips
Our family just spent almost 3 weeks exploring Portugal, and I visited on a solo trip last year. So, we have a lot of fresh and first-hand Portugal travel inspiration to share here at Our Little Lifestyle.
You can easily browse my Portugal guides, and here are a few that you may find helpful:
- Sintra Day Trip from Lisbon
- Pena Palace Sintra Tips
- Visiting the Moorish Castle
- Hyatt Regency Lisbon Review
- Europe Travel Essentials
- International Travel Tips
- How We Find Flight Deals
- Deals on Last Minute Tours
As always, you can follow our trips on social media! The Instagram story highlights are a great place to see us actually traveling in these destinations. For example, here is my Portugal 2026 family trip highlight!
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